Pigmentation in Indian Skin – An Ayurveda‑Meets‑Epigenetics View
- Twisha
- Dec 3
- 4 min read
Indian skin carries a gorgeous spectrum of wheat, honey and deeper brown tones, but the same melanin that gives this richness also makes dark spots and uneven patches more visible when skin is stressed.
In India’s intense sun and humid climate, pigmentation has become one of the most common concerns women share with dermatologists and Ayurvedic doctors alike.
What pigmentation really is
Pigmentation is the colour of the skin, primarily governed by melanin – a pigment produced by specialised cells called melanocytes. When certain areas start producing more melanin than the surrounding skin, dark patches, spots, or a general “dull, tanned” look appear; this is called hyperpigmentation.
Most Indian skin falls between Fitzpatrick phototypes III to V, which tan quickly, burn less and carry a higher baseline melanin load. This gives natural UV protection but also means any inflammation, hormonal change or sun exposure can leave behind long‑lasting marks that are harder to fade compared to very light skin.
An Ayurvedic lens on pigmentation
Ayurveda describes the radiance and colour of skin under the functions of Bhrajaka Pitta, a sub‑dosha of Pitta that “digests” whatever is applied on the skin and governs complexion. When Pitta—often along with Vata—becomes aggravated and when Rakta Dhatu (the blood tissue) is vitiated, it can show up as dark patches, uneven tone and loss of natural glow.
Classical texts compare melasma‑like facial patches to Vyanga, a Kshudra Roga characterised by painless, bluish‑brown spots on the face, often linked to Vata‑Pitta imbalance and mental stress such as anger or grief.
The epigenetic story behind dark spots
Modern research adds another layer: epigenetic, the way lifestyle and environment switch genes on or off without changing DNA itself. Ultraviolet and visible light, pollution and chronic inflammation can all trigger epigenetic changes in skin cells that up regulate pigment‑producing pathways and accelerate photo ageing.
Studies show that UV radiation can alter histone markers and DNA methylation in keratinocytes, shift how melanocytes behave and ultimately increase melanin production and pigment spots. This beautifully mirrors Ayurveda’s observation that repeated “heat and irritation” at the level of skin and blood leaves behind stubborn discolouration that does not fade easily.
Major types of pigmentations
in Indian skin
On Indian skin, most everyday pigmentation falls into a few broad clinical patterns. Several of these can coexist in the same person.
Melasma (mask‑like patches): Melasma shows up as symmetrical brown or grey‑brown patches on the cheeks, forehead, nose, or upper lip, and is very common in women of child‑bearing age with medium to dark skin. It is strongly influenced by hormones (pregnancy, contraceptive pills, thyroid), UV and visible light, heat, and sometimes genetics, which is why it often worsens in sunny climates like India.
Post‑inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) : PIH is the flat brown spot left behind after acne, eczema, insect bites, waxing burns, or harsh DIY treatments. Because Indian skin mounts a brisk pigment response to inflammation, these marks can linger for months or years, especially if the original trigger (like recurrent acne or picking) continues.
Tanning and sun spots: This appears as overall darkening, mottled tan, or discrete “sun freckles” (solar lentigines) on chronically exposed areas such as the face, neck, arms, and hands. In a country with a high UV index almost year‑round, even daily commuting and indoor light through windows are enough to drive ongoing pigment production in Indian skin.
Periorbital and facial melanosis: Many Indians experience darkening around the eyes or a diffuse, ill‑defined brownness on the face, also called facial melanosis. This often has multiple causes: genetics, friction from rubbing, allergies, screen fatigue, vascular congestion, along with melanin itself.
Why Indian skin marks so easily
Several everyday realities make Indian skin particularly vulnerable to hyperpigmentation:
High UV and visible light exposure due to climate and outdoor routines, often without adequate sun protection.
High prevalence of acne and the cultural habit of picking, squeezing, or scrubbing, which fuels PIH.
Hormonal factors, including earlier age of childbearing and increasing endocrine disturbances like PCOS and thyroid issues, which are closely linked with melasma.
Salon and home procedures such as frequent threading, waxing, bleaching and strong peels, which can burn the skin barrier if done aggressively on brown skin.
From an Ayurvedic perspective, this lifestyle easily aggravates Pitta (heat, intensity) and Vata (stress, irregular routine), while modern epigenetic science would describe the same pattern as chronic environmental stress changing how pigment‑related genes are expressed.
Where Ayurveda and epigenetics meet
When seen together, Ayurveda and epigenetics are telling the same story in two different languages.
Ayurveda explains pigmentation as the outcome of aggravated Pitta and disturbed Bhrajaka Pitta acting on the skin and blood, often with Vata and psychological stress as co‑factors. Epigenetics shows how light, pollution, diet and inflammation generate oxidative stress and alter gene expression in melanocytes and keratinocytes, increasing melanin production and weakening repair.
For Indian skin, that means formulating in a way that respects melanin’s protective role while gently persuading over‑active pigment pathways to quieten down rather than “bleaching” them aggressively.
When a skincare routine or formulation is designed from this Ayurveda‑meets‑epigenetics lens, like our Radiance Recovery Moisturising Serum, it stops fighting the skin and instead works with its natural intelligence—honouring melanin as a protector while coaching it back into balance for a clearer, more luminous Indian complexion.
